A froe is a traditional hand tool used for splitting wood in a controlled
way along the length of the log/beam.
It is a great tool for preparing a log/beam into smaller pieces
which do not need to be of a precise measurement. A prime example
is using the froe on a large log that needs converting into firewood.
A froe consists of a wooden handle and a metal blade (as shown in the photos).
The metal blade is attached to the handle at one end with the blade
usually being set at about 90 degrees to the handle. The handle
and blade can be of any length, often the handle and the blade are
of similar lengths with the handle being just slightly longer.
The most common sized blades are in the region of 8-14 inches long.
There are also some small mini froes on the market with blade lengths
of 5-6 inches.
One end of the blade has a metal eye (loop) where the handle is
secured to the blade. The metal eye can either be a welded eye or
a rolled eye. A welded eye is a loop which has been welded onto
the end of the blade. A rolled eye is made by rolling the end of
the blade into a loop. Technically the rolled eye is a stronger
design because there is no obvious weak point, however as long as
the welded eye has been welded well there is no reason the tool
wouldn't last for decades.
The blade is typically tapered from a thicker portion at the top
of the blade through to a thinner piece of metal at the bottom of
the blade. The thinnest portion is made by placing a bevel on both
sides of the blade. It is this tapering from thin to thick that
will help create the splitting action. The edge on the blade is
a dull edge opposed to a sharp edge; the reason being a sharp edge
would stick into the wood whereas a dull edge allows the tool to
split the wood.
The handle is usually slightly tapered and is usually made of an
easily available hardwood. The handle is attached to the froe usually
by feeding the handle through the blade eye until the thicker piece
of the handle locks into place.
The froe has a long history of use, no doubt due to the tool being
simple to make and very effective at it's job. From what we have
observed, there are very few old froes which bear a maker's mark,
especially the marks of high volume, well known manufacturers.
The maker's marks we have observed tend to be a local blacksmiths' mark.
A typical froe consists of the following parts:
The wood the froe is usually used to split logs/beams of wood.
How do you use a froe?
It is important the blade of the froe should have a dull edge opposed
to a sharp edge; the reason being a sharp edge would stick into the
wood whereas a dull edge allows the tool to split the wood.
The piece of wood for splitting should be smaller in diameter/width
than the length of the blade of the froe being used. This can be checked
by lining-up the froe blade against the end of the wood. If the froe
blade is shorter or only just a bit longer than the piece of woods
diameter/width then the piece of wood is too large for the froe.
Once it has been established the froe and the piece of wood are compatible,
the piece of wood for splitting is positioned vertically. The froe
blade is pushed firmly into the end/top of the piece of vertically
positioned wood, ready to split the wood down its length. The amount
of wood that will be split depends on where the blade is positioned.
If you wish to split the piece of wood in to two similar halves then
the blade would be positioned in the centre of the end/top of the piece
of wood.
Once the froe is in position, knock the back of the blade a couple
of times (a lump of wood is often the preferred implement) to force
the blade into the wood. Once the blade takes hold the piece of wood
will start to split down its length. Once the froe has caused a split,
the froe is then levered by pulling and pushing the handle. The levering
action will cause the split to move further down through the piece
of wood.
The froe should slide down as far as it can after each levering action
and the process is repeated until the piece of wood is successfully
split into two.
If the froe gets stuck and the levering action happens not to be having
the desired effect, it can sometimes be helpful to knock in a downwards
direction the piece of the blade sticking out.
Below are a list of a few well known froe makers:
(i) This review/article may give warning(s) / advisory notes / cautions / guidelines given
in good faith, any such information should not be solely relied upon and seen
as the exhaustive list of warnings / advisory notes / cautions / guidelines. Refer
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for the good health of your tool and property.
(ii) The details here are given in good faith, the details are constantly growing
and evolving, there is scope for error and shouldn't be fully relied upon,
please confirm any details for yourself by performing additional research from
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